7 Amazing High Value Training Treats Almost All Dogs Love
As a modern dog trainer, you know the importance of figuring out each individual dog’s likes/dislikes when it comes to training treats. However, there are some foods/treats that are almost always considered high value in the minds (or mouths?) of dogs. Just be mindful that as so many of these high value food items are not specifically for dogs, they may be extremely high in fat or sodium, or just have questionable ingredients (see #1!), so save them for training complex behaviors or locations that will require super high value rewards.
Please note – this is not an inclusive list nor is it necessarily an endorsement; these are some treats I personally use and have heard from other trainers they use and like. Additionally, some of the links here are affiliate links, meaning we earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you) if you make a purchase through them, helping us continue offering great advice for your dog training business; we only recommend products we believe in, and we value your trust.
Was there ever a human food more perfectly designed for dog training than squeeze cheese? That lovely metal can with a nozzle at the end is perfect for relatively mess-free treating. And you cannot get a more ideal treating method for muzzle training because the nozzle fits so well through the muzzle. It comes in several flavors, though anything other than American or Cheddar can be difficult to find. There is an elusive bacon flavor that is rumored to be THE ONE.
Old reliable. There are very few dogs that don’t go crazy for peanut butter. Whether you give them a quick swipe with their tongue directly out of the jaw, or dip a spoon or finger in to let them lick it, peanut butter is going to keep even the most distracted of dogs working with your clients. It is also handy smeared on the refrigerator or another vertical surface to occupy a dog while getting a nail trim, or of course stuffed and frozen in Kongs or other stuffable toys.
Baby food is soft and stinky, pretty much ideal for dog training. Also, seeing as how it is designed to keep human infants alive and healthy, it often contains less questionable ingredients than something like Easy Cheese or hot dogs. Baby food also now comes in squeezable pouches for easy mess-free treating.
Hot Dogs
Kind of like peanut butter, hot dogs are a classic super high value training treat. Whenever possible, get the nitrate/nitrite-free ones so they are at least slightly less unhealthy. And remember, one hot dog can garner over a hundred treats if cut well.
Freeze-dried or dehydrated meat/organs is considered “doggy crack” by those in the know. Though it’s not overly stinky, it still can get the attention of most any dog in your vicinity. One drawback is that the pieces are often kind of large, requiring a little work to break them into more appropriate treat-sized pieces. The effort is worth it for such a mess-free, healthy, high value treat.
French Fries
Fresh, warm, salty, greasy french fries. Nectar of the gods (dogs?). Incredibly unhealthy, so definitely only use these in extreme moderation. However, the lovely thing is they are soft so they are very easily torn into very small pieces so you can get a lot of training mileage out of just a handful of fries.
These are relatively newer on the market but dogs seem to go nuts for them. They smell really good, they’re small, they’re soft, not messy, and very inexpensive. Almost the ideal high value training treat.
What are some other treats your clients’ dogs consider high value?
Here are 10 things you didn’t know about dog trainers:
1. Dog trainers love dogs – sometimes their humans not so much.
2. Dog trainers don’t like being asked at parties what to do about your dog eating his own poop (or insert any dog training dilemma “here”) any more than a doctor likes being asked about that suspicious bump.
3. Dog trainers see the good, the bad, and the ugly – and wake up to do it all again every day.
4. Dog trainers’ dogs are not perfect by any stretch of the imagination – we have the same struggles as every dog owner – please don’t expect perfection from our beloved dogs.
5. Dog trainers are human. We have our strengths and weaknesses, our passions and our “eh” moments.
6. Dog trainers have working hours, and non-working hours, just like any other profession.
7. That emergency training problem you have that was months, or maybe years developing? It is not going to be “fixed” on a Sunday evening at 9:00 p.m. for Monday morning.
8. When you don’t have money for dog training and want your dog trainer to give you a discount or a free session, we don’t pay our rent, our bills, or buy groceries. For many dog trainers, this is their livelihood, not just a “hobby.”
9. Do as your dog trainer says, not as s/he does.
10. When what you’re doing isn’t working, try doing what your dog trainer suggested.
Being a dog trainer takes a certain kind of person. They must love dogs, enjoy working with people, be self-motivated, and compassionate. We salute all dog trainers who pursue education and modern practices to improve their service to their community.
When connecting with a new potential client, it’s important to leave the best impression possible. Your first email to a client may be the only chance you get to deliver your message. Start off with a relevant subject line and don’t fluff your email with random information. Have a go-to template for first interactions so it will save you time in the long run. Fill out the necessary must-haves and plug-in specific information that’s relevant to the client. It has been said that “first impressions last a lifetime.” Below is a list of the three necessary must-haves:
1. Contact Information
This may seem like a no brainer, but if you don’t have a signature line in your email with all of your current information, the client won’t know how to contact you. Include the name of your business and the locations you cover. You should also include links to your social media profiles so they can join you there as well!
2. Prices
List prices for the services that they are inquiring about. Asking questions about their lifestyle over the phone can help you get a feel for what they can afford, then follow-up with a friendly and professional email with the services you recommend.
3. Clear & Concise Message
Don’t overwhelm the reader with lots of mumbo-jumbo. Most clients don’t know what all the letters behind your name stand for and most don’t care. They do care that you are educated and know what you are doing. If the business side of your company is sloppy, clients may think it will reflect on your work ethic or training skills.
Emails that are concise, polite, and intelligent will help your business stand out from the crowd. Someone may not know your brand, but if you send them a well-written message, they’ll prefer you to someone who took less care. It should be stated that emails with personality build engagement more successfully than cold, robotic ones. This is a service business after all!
How do you structure your emails to potential clients?
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When asking a client what their goals are for the end of a session, coming when called is almost always on the list. It only makes sense, because it is a life saving behavior – behavior being the key word. A lot of owners have a misconception that dogs understand the word “Come” and expect them to appear when the magic word is used. However, “Come”, just like sit or walking on a leash needs to be taught. Here are 5 step to teaching a reliable recall.
1. Charge the Word
If you use a clicker or marker word, you need to give meaning to the noise by pairing food or rewards with the noise. People often introduce the word “come” without it having any meaning to the dog. We want to charge the word with a very tasty, very high value treat. With the dog on a 6 ft leash, say the word “Come”, start to back up, and click or use your marker word when the dog moves with you and give them their reward. It is important to do this exercise for a solid week so that our dogs are developing a muscle memory response when they hear that word.
2. Never Punish A Recall
Never punish the dog for returning. Take it as a learning experience as to why the dog didn’t come back. Was the distraction too great? The key to getting a reliable recall is to always keep it positive and enjoyable from the dog’s perspective.
3. Make It A Game
If coming when called can be as exciting as a game of fetch or teaching a favorite trick, dogs would be far more reliable. Playing a game of round robin where the dog runs as fast as he can between two or more people to get his tasty recall reward can be a lot of fun and a great way to create a reliable recall. A game of chase where the dog chases you is also a great way to work on recall.
4. Increase Distractions Gradually
Once the word has been charged, it is time to gradually build distractions. Begin indoors and then outdoors while keeping the dog on a light long line. This provides the dog with some freedom while preventing them from running away. “Come” should not be used unless the client is willing to place $100 on the fact that the dog will come. If they aren’t willing to wager that then the distraction is likely too great and therefore the word should not be used.
5. Be Unpredictable
Don’t always call the dog when he is doing something that we find is less than desirable or something fun (like playing with other dogs or chasing a squirrel). Call the dog when he is doing nothing at all, too. The more often recall is practiced when it is easy, the quicker the dog will build muscle memory. Muscle memory will make it so that when distractions are tough the dog will quickly leave whatever is exciting and come back to you without thinking at all. When the dog comes to you be unpredictable in your generosity. Sometimes its only one tasty morsel of steak or sometimes its 10. This helps to prevent the dine and dash effect. This helps to create a dog that will hang out for a moment when he comes back.
Taking the time to build a reliable recall will allow the dog to have more freedom off leash in the future. This is one life-saving behavior where I encourage students to reward for life and always practice so that it never gets rusty.
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Most dogs learn the same way. Wait, really? Let’s back up. The difference is not in the learning; it’s in the training. I’m sure you’ve experienced that each breed requires training specific to their tendencies, and each pup can be as individual as each of us. By paying attention we can even recognize that there are anomalies with in a breed—like the Border Collie that doesn’t stalk or isn’t sensitive to movement, or the Bulldog or Frenchie that happily walks without the passive aggressive Buddah stops. Beyond even this, we know to change our training approach when we witness behavioral issues such as fear, anxiety, or aggression. And yet, it remains true that dogs still learn the same way! Surprising?
Similar, Yet Different
Each dog is different. In the same way that students excel in certain subjects and struggle in others, dogs do, too. I believe this happens because of “Lumping and Splitting”. The term lumping is asking a dog to learn multiple aspects of training at the same time by introducing the behavior simultaneously. Splitting is taking one behavior and teaching it through gradual and incremental steps. All dogs eventually learn the “Triple D’s” (distance, duration, and distraction) but the approach is what must differ for each dog.
Lumping
For some dogs when it comes to understanding the basics of a stay, they’ll get an easy “A”. However the moment a distraction is introduced the house of cards falls apart. This often happens when the trainer tries to muscle through and “lump” new criteria together, causing the dog to fail. Although “splitting” up the stay itself and introducing distractions in tiny itty bitty increments may take a bit longer, the lasting effects in the overall behavior will be golden! Combining the Triple D’s too quickly is the lumping that so often causes big failures resulting in frustration for the dog and for your client.
I sometimes see it when a new client shows me they’ve been teaching a stay by extending their hand like a traffic cop while slowly backing away from their dog as if it were a bomb, chanting “staaaaaay, staaaayyyyyyy” which inevitably results in failure, because they’ve increased the distance too much too soon.
One Step at a Time
Let’s look at the same behavior split it up into smaller pieces working each of the D’s one at a time. First: duration. Reward your client’s dog with a treat for nothing more than sitting in front of you. If you can get the pup to stay in the sit for 10 seconds in between treats then it would be an appropriate time to move onto the next D!
Second: distance. The dog will always dictate when he’s ready for more distance by his success in his stay. With some dogs you might find leaning back is plenty of distance initially. The more you breakdown the criteria, the more successful the dog will be.
Lastly: distractions. Using kissy noises or thigh pats incrementally added can be plenty of distraction at first. It’s critical to keep rewarding each small distraction. This will help ensure your rate of success without allowing the dog to fail.
Donna Hill has an outstanding video that thoroughly explains this concept:
Splitting can help you teach any behavior. A great trainer will be able to identify when to make like a tree and split!
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After thorough surveying throughout online communities, we discovered the five most popular dog harnesses for training.
The first three harnesses are front attachment harnesses which have a ring on the back across the shoulders and another ring in the middle of the chest piece of the harness. A double ended leash can be attached to one or both rings. This gives handlers better control of the dog, so when a dog pulls he is turned sideways which reduces or prevents pulling.
Please note – this is not an inclusive list nor is it necessarily an endorsement; these are some tools I personally use and have heard from other trainers they use and like. Additionally, some of the links here are affiliate links, meaning we earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you) if you make a purchase through them, helping us continue offering great advice for your dog training business; we only recommend products we believe in, and we value your trust.
Some trainers say that this is the best harness they have used since they like the 2 stainless steel rings. This harness is also very adjustable so it fits well and the chest strap is lined with velvet, which helps prevent rubbing and chaffing. It has a control loop on the back of the harness, which tightens gently around the dog’s chest to discourage pulling. Some trainers don’t like this martingale effect though. 2 Hounds Design is the exclusive manufacturer of the Freedom Harness and is made in the USA.
This is another highly recommended harness, which was invented and made in the UK. It has three pieces – top, front and girth which clips together and can be swapped out so that any combination of size or colors can be used. What is also nice is the high quality soft, washable fleece padding which helps prevent rubs from the webbing straps. Another great feature is that this harness can be customized to fit front legged amputee dogs.
Made in Great Britain, this is another 2 point harness, (chest & back) which is adjustable within the size range and comes in a variety of colors and a padded double ended lead. Some people think that the vertical strap behind the front legs is a little too close to the front legs/elbows though.
This harness is different from the three above in that it is a side attachment harness and comes with a protective sleeve for tummy strap, a leash and instructional DVD. When the dog pulls forward it is guided round to face you.
This harness is made by a company which specializes in high-end Schutzhund products. The Julius-K9 IDC Powerharness comes in lots of colors and adjustable sizes. It is well-known for it s comfort, fit and quality. There is a neat handle on top which can be used to lift dogs. The chest belt, edges and the Julius-K9 tags are reflective. There is also a loop on the top to attach a mini flashlight for those walks at night.
Whatever you choose, make sure the harness fits the dog properly and does not restrict his movement, rub or chaff him. Harnesses are a better option than a regular collar because it won’t damage a dog’s throat when he pulls. But the best way to get a dog to stop pulling is to train him using force-free loose leash walking training techniques.
If there is one thing all dog trainers love, it’s their equipment! From collars to treats, dog trainers can obsess over many things. The line between owner and dog is something that takes many forms. Not only do leashes look different, they also serve different purposes. The following leashes have a special place in dog training.
1. Long Lines
Long lines are very important in dog training because we always want to set our clients up for success. Long lines are utilized during recall or off leash training when we want to ensure the dogs will come back to us when they are called. Lighter weight long lines can be a stepping stone to off leash work. Materials used for long lines include nylon, rope, biothane, and leather. Nylon and rope are lighter and cheaper, while biothane and leather are a sturdier, but more expensive option. Biothane is also waterproof, which can be beneficial in long lines since they drag the ground.
2. Waist Leashes
Waist leashes are good for your clients who continually ‘check’ their dogs with the leash or clients with dogs who are very strong. If your clients cannot break their habit of checking their dogs or keeping a tight leash, using a waist leash will keep them from steering their dogs. Waist leashes are also good for clients with strong dogs because it allows your client to use their whole body to steady their dog instead of being pulled off-balance with their arms. Waist leashes that I, or very close colleagues, have tested include the Ruffwear Omnijore Hipbelt and the Dog-Safe Hands-Free leash.
3. Double Hook/European Leashes
Double hook leashes are good for clients who do many different things with their dogs like hiking, dog sports, or leisure walking. These leashes have two snaps at either end of the line, with or without a handle. Different examples would be the 2 Hounds Freedom Harness Double Hook leash. This leash allows you to utilize both snaps on the Freedom No-Pull Harness. You can also attach both hooks to one ring to make a shorter leash, or you can attach only one hook for a longer line. Another double hook leash is the police lead or the TTouch leash. They are usually leather or biothane and have two hooks and a few o-rings on the leash. You can make it a shorter or longer lead or use it over your shoulder (so it hits across the chest like a seatbelt) to become a hands free leash. There are many makers of these leashes, but I would recommend a well-known leather or biothane crafter, such as Paco, Ella’s Lead, TTouch Leash, or Karma.
4. Bungee Leashes
Bungee leashes are exactly what they sound like. These leashes have a bungee portion that absorbs shock. These are good for your clients with dogs who are heavy pullers. They absorb the shock when the dog bolts out and reduces the amount of jerk that makes it to your client. While your clients are training with their dogs, these may be a good idea in case an accident occurs. A bungee leash that I have personally used with success is the Ruffwear Roamer leash. The nice thing about this leash is that it can also be used as a waist leash!
5. Obedience Tabs
Just like with long lines, obedience tabs can be used when perfecting off leash work without the leash in the way. These are very short leashes that can be attached to the collar and left to hang there when not held. They are short enough that they do not impede the dog’s legs or paws, but a good safety back up to have in case your client needs to quickly grab their dog. These come in many sizes and material such as nylon, rope, leather, and biothane.
These five types of leashes all serve different purposes in dog training from lessening the amount of strength an owner needs, to advanced obedience work. What is your favorite leash and what purpose does it serve in dog training? Do you prefer one material over the other? Why?
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Do you find some clients saying: “I just want my dog to calm down”? I often think they are really saying they wish their dog would listen to them rather than lose their spunk or nuttiness. Often times when dogs are aroused by their environment be it a squirrel, another dog or a human, the behaviors that they know well in their day-to-day life such as sit and down, go right out the window because they’re so aroused and excited.
As a trainer we can help their brains comprehend what arousal feels like so that the pup can perform all his basic tasks when aroused. Tug-of-War is a tried and true way to teach impulse control when aroused. It is incredibly important as a trainer to watch the dog’s behavior change as you tug and to remember that in the beginning it can be pretty intense for the pup, so taking breaks to reduce stress from the intensity is also key.
Darth Vader vs. Luke Skywalker
Tug-of-War can sometimes be viewed as the Darth Vader of games for dogs; designed to encourage aggression, when in fact it isn’t evil at. Take it from me: if tugging made dogs aggressive then I would have the most aggressive dogs on earth. When tugging is used properly it serves as a game of bonding between you and your client’s pup. Tugging can be used as a wonderful tool to create what I call “synthetic arousal”. Granted; arousal is arousal, but when we can incite it through tugging, arousal can help proof the behavior and make your client’s dogs super solid!
Dress Rehearsal
It’s probable that the directions and exercises we give our clients to practice throughout the week will be rehearsed in a quiet and safe area. They often choose spaces such as their living room or bedroom, which are good starts but can tend to act like a vacuum. If they rarely push their pup to practice new behaviors in more stimulating environments, the tendency is that is the dog can only perform the behavior in a quiet and calm area.
So, how do we take the show on the road? Enter, stage left: Tugging.
Establishing the rules to this kind of play first is of utmost importance. A good trainer first must institute the ground rules around mouthing, choking up on the toy, and jumping—teaching clearly what’s prohibited. Making sure too that the dog will drop the toy on cue is an example of the small, yet critical pieces of impulse control necessary for easy and successful arousal training. I’ll often make simple adjustments when unwanted behavior arises such as dropping the toy mid-game and walking away—remembering that I’m the one making the toy dance and without me it’s just a rag on the floor.
Just Before the Curtain Goes Up
After your client’s dog has the foundation of tugging with rules, it’s time to move on to doing a type of circuit training where basic commands such as sit, down, stay, and leave it are added to the tugging games. Prime the pump by asking your client’s dog to sit a few times rewarding each time with food. Then present the tug toy and tug with the pup for a short time. Follow by asking for a drop and a few sits. If you notice that the pup has some difficulty sitting or holding a sit because they are aroused, slow down on the tugging, as this is no different than fine-tuning the equalizer on a Hi-Fi stereo.
Opening Night
Just as all successful performances are the result consistent and fun rehearsal after rehearsal, we know that dog-play is no different. The circuit training allows for dogs to continue thinking even when they are aroused. With this type of training you’ll be setting them up for amazing amounts of success where they will be able to do more than just stay at home. They’ll probably even lose the old title of “crazy” and maybe even be nominated for an Oscar.
How will you be using tugging in your training?
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“Lazy Dog Training” is a term I use when working with clients. Clients often feel overwhelmed by the amount of training that is truly needed. Because we are trainers and know the importance of training, it’s easy for us to show up with the energy of Richard Simmons; hitting them with a barrage of knowledge when we walk in the door. Sometimes this amount of information can overwhelm certain families making the task of training seem very daunting. For these folks lazy training can be an amazing tool for both you and your client’s toolbox since it is passive training.
Inadvertently Rewarding Other Behaviors
There are certain behaviors that can be taught and various exercises that can be done in which you are rewarding the main behavior while “secondary” and “tertiary” behaviors are also being rewarded. This is “good fallout”; a happy trickle if you will. These lazy techniques give you a 2-for or a 3-for, for the work of one.
Why not hit two birds with one stone?
One of my favorite examples of this is the Elevator Game. In this game, you are specifically teaching a dog not to jump. You begin by lowering a treat from above a sitting dog and click and treat for being able to lower the treat to the dog’s face without him jumping. Although you are rewarding the main behavior, what else is the dog learning simultaneously? The beginnings of a stay! (The staying part of the behavior would be the “secondary” behavior being learned simultaneously.) As you add a little distance and duration and, eventually, distraction, you will end up with a great little stay!
Another passive game I play is Kong-to-go-to-bed. I often start with this when doing a consult. Have the family stuff a Kong and then set up a bed or a crate a few feet away. Give the Kong to the dog and notice the dog will generally go and lay with its new stuffed Kong in bed. At first glance it might seem like that’s all that’s happening but in actuality you’ve got a magic Kong! It’s dispensing rewards for being in a down in a dog bed!
Continue the exercise by periodically walking over and exchanging the Kong for a treat. Walk away with the dog following you and then give the Kong back. The dog should return to his bed. After some repetition, cue “go to your bed” and give the Kong and watch the owner’s jaws drop as he goes to his bed on cue.
Change The Client’s Perspective
Another way I teach passive training is to change the client’s perspective by asking them to catch their dog being good. So many dog families are so quick to punish a pup when they do something wrong but rarely do they reward when the dog is doing something right. I will generally ask them to ask themselves this question, “is your dog being good or naughty this second?” If the pup is being good, feed and praise him! With a treat pouch on their hip, have them click/mark and capture moments in the day when their pup is being good. By doing this you will have a pup that is actively engaging with its owners trying to figure out “what makes them click?”
The moral of the story is to remember that just because it’s lazy training doesn’t mean the job isn’t getting done. Let’s teach owners how to train smarter, not harder.
What are some ways you will use or are using lazy training?
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Relaxation is something a lot of dogs do not know how to do in many different environments. It is also something most owners do not think they have to teach their dog. Relaxation is important because it helps lower the chance of reactivity when dogs are able to be level-headed in many different environments. Relaxation exercises are also important to help prevent separation anxiety. A dog’s ability to learn is also higher when they are relaxed versus when they are anxious or hyper.
There are many different ways to teach a dog to relax. Here are three techniques to try.
1. Relaxation Protocol
Dr. Karen Overall’s relaxation protocol is a very popular method to teach relaxation. You can find mp3’s of the relaxation protocol here. Below is a video with an explanation of what the relaxation protocol entails. You can also perform the relaxation protocol on your mat so you can relate relaxation with the mat wherever it is taken.
2. Capturing Calmness/Default Settle
Kikopup has an excellent YouTube video on how to capture a dog’s calmness. Rewarding the dog when they are not expecting it when they are calm. This is something the owners can do while watching tv at night. Teaching a default settle is a great behavior for owners who enjoy taking their dogs to outside patios for meals. These behaviors have the dogs working on relaxation because they enjoy the behavior, not just because food is present.
3. The Calm Chin Rest
Another of Kikopup’s videos touches on ‘the calm chin rest’. This is teaching a chin rest, usually without a clicker because they have a tendency to excite dogs, and working towards moving the dog’s neck and feeling for their body being loose and relaxed.
These are just three methods that can be utilized to teach relaxation. It’s important that all dogs learn how to relax in different environments as it is not healthy or fair for a dog to live in an anxious, stressful environment.
What other relaxation methods do you utilize with your clients?
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