We know that dogs communicate with us all of the time, whether we notice it or not. However, can they let us know when they have learned a skill we are teaching? Stanley Coren says yes, in his article, “Does A Dog’s Body Language Tell Us How Much He Has Learned?”
The Seed Is Planted
Coren began paying attention after a dog trainer mentioned that he noticed his dogs almost exhibited pushy, “dominant” behavior when they started to catch on to a new behavior. Instead of lolling tongues and wagging tails, the ears would go forward and tails up.
One he started paying attention, Coren began noticing this as well, mostly in dogs that were relatively new to learning. He then found a Japanese study that had looked into this premise. It was a team from the Azabu University School of Veterinary Medicine and was headed by Masashi Hasegawa.
The Study
The study involved 46 dogs with no prior obedience training. The goal was to teach them to sit using just a hand signal. They used luring – moving a food treat from in front of the dog’s nose to over their head to lure them into a sit. The sessions were 5 minutes long and documented via video. Video was also taken of the dogs during non-training times to compare behaviors. The videos were then scored, focusing on the ears, mouth, eyes, tail carriage, and wagging.
The Body Language Results
Mouths: Successful dogs were more prone to keeping their mouths shut, generally a sign of focus and concentration.
Ears: Successful dogs would have their ears rotated forward which is, again, a sign of focused attention.
Eyes: Successful dogs had wider than normal eyes, especially when staring at their trainer.
Tail: Successful dogs generally held their tail high and still, or vibrating slightly.
Is It Dominance?
Coren feels that “dominance” is too strong of a word for the behaviors exhibited. He feels that the successful dogs are showing strong, confident behavior once they have figured out the task. They get bolder and more pushy once they have “solved” the problem, and they want to keep training to continue earning treats.
Impact For Modern Dog Trainers
So what does this mean for you, as a modern dog trainer? We generally consider closed mouths, forward ears, and high, barely moving tails as signs of intensity and possibly nearing their threshold, so we often try to take things down a notch when we see these occurring. You will need to keep in mind that if you are training a green dog, or teaching a brand new skill, these behaviors may pop up and you should celebrate them. The dog is telling you she’s got it! Obviously, everything needs to be kept in context – if you are working with a reactive dog outside, he MAY be going over threshold. So it will be up to you to monitor the surroundings and take in the big picture.
Have you noticed these behaviors in any dogs that you’ve been training? Tell us about it!
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With winter coming upon us, it is more important than ever to encourage your clients to evaluate how their dogs ride in the car. Many of our clients are perfectly content to allow their pooch to roam freely around the car, or even sit in the driver’s lap or on the windshield while the car is in motion. Though some think this is harmless and makes for cute pictures, all it takes is a split second for the client and their dog’s lives to get impacted forever.
Car safety cannot be emphasized enough with clients. As modern dog trainers, it is up to you to emphasize safety in all aspects of dog’s lives, not just immediate training needs. As somebody who has spun off the road with my dog in the car (fortunately we were both buckled in so did not get injured), car safety is a high priority. So what are options for car safety, and what behaviors does a dog need to know?
Car Harnesses
Photo courtesy of Liz Wyant
Harness are probably the easiest, most cost-efficient and space-saving option for most dog owners. A good harness will be wide across the chest and fully cover the chest down to the girth, but without hindering the neck or shoulders. It will have some padding and solid metal hardware. There are generally two main attachment points for car harnesses – either a metal hook that attaches to a sturdy strap and carabiner (as pictured below), or a loop that the car’s seatbelt will go through before being latched. Either way, the dog should be able to sit, stand, or lie down, but not be able to roam around. If they can move too far, that means they will not be as secure in case of an accident. Look for harnesses that have actual safety ratings. The harness in these pictures is Kurgo’s Tru-Fit Enhanced Strength Harness.
Photo courtesy of Liz Wyant
What behaviors should the dog know?
The dog should be happy about wearing a harness, especially one that has a little more coverage than most walking-type harnesses.
The dog should be able to sit quietly in one place without panicking. If the dog is spinning around, they can get tangled in the harness and injure themselves while also distracting the driver.
The dog should wait to be invited into the car, and also should wait to be invited OUT of the car.
Crates
Photo courtesy of Laurie Schlossnagle.
A solid, well-secured crate will be safer than a car harness as it will not only keep the dog from being flung around the car, but it will keep other flying items from impacting the dog. The best of the best when it comes to car-specific crates is the Mim Variocage. However, as these are rather pricey, they are out of limits for most people. The next best is a variokennel or wire crate that is, again, properly secured to the car. A crate will be no use if it can go bouncing around the car because it is not secured. You want to make sure it’s just big enough for the dog to fit comfortably, but not spacious enough for them to be able to sprawl out and have oodles of room. Again, the goal is car safety and keeping them secure in case of an accident.
Photo courtesy of Amie Glasgow
What behaviors should the dog know?
The dog needs to be crate-trained so they do not panic when placed in the crate.
The dog should know how to chew appropriately provided toys/bones instead of fussing with the straps securing the crate to the vehicle.
The dog should wait to be invited into the car, and also should wait to be invited OUT of the car.
What NOT To Do
Allow the dog to hang his/her head out the window – Even at slow speeds, debris is kicked off the road by other vehicles and may severely injure the dog.
Allow the dog to ride on the driver’s lap – A dog in the driver’s lap is incredibly distracting for the driver. And if there is a car accident, there is a high likelihood the airbag impact will kill the dog.
Allow the dog to ride on the dashboard – In the case of an accident, a dog riding on the dashboard has very little chance of escaping unscathed. Also, they will hinder visibility and act as a distraction for the driver.
Use a collar and leash to secure dog to headrest or other part of car – in case of an accident, all that pressure suddenly pulling on the dog’s collar will cause SERIOUS injury.
Fail to have identification on dog – If there is an accident, and your dog manages to get loose, it is imperative that they have a collar with tags on so they can be quickly reunited. Microchips are wonderful, too, but only as backup to a collar and tags.
What tips do you have for car safety for dogs?
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There are many professional organizations out there for dog trainers to join. How do you possibly decide which one(s) to give your money to? I recently joined the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (IAABC) as a basic supporting member, and could not be happier with my decision. Following are the top 10 reasons to consider joining the IAABC:
Free videos for CEU’s – Once you join the IAABC, even if you are joining at the basic supporting membership level, you have immediate access to free lectures and webinars. These are changed/added to on a regular basis. But not only are they free; you can actually earn CEU’s for watching them and answering a few quick questions!
Conference registration discounts – I was given the honor of attending the IAABC’s dog behavior conference in Chicago earlier this year, and I can honestly say it was one of the most educational and beneficial conferences I’ve ever attended. As a member of the IAABC, you get discounted ticket prices to their conferences. They already have their dog and cat conference scheduled for 2016, and for 2017 they are hoping to add horse and parrot conferences as well.
Member discounts – Enjoy discounts to Dogwise, Tawzer Dog, The Clicker Company, Behavior Works, E-Training for Dogs, and Dogsafe.
IAABC Animal Behavior Consulting courses – As part of their education initiative, you can take online courses that are interactive and educational. The first one they are offering is “Conducting Remote Feline Behavior Consultations.” IAABC members get a 15% discount on the course, but they also offered a code to audit it for free. They are soon going to be collaborating with the Karen Pryor Academy to offer discounts on coursework.
Discussions – The IAABC offers many different ways to converse/consult with fellow members. You can talk to people via their very active Facebook member group, LinkedIn, and Yahoo groups. There is a general members Yahoo group along with species-specific groups. As a member, you are welcome to join any/all of the species-specific groups to benefit from the shared knowledge.
Appropriate for all skill levels – There is no need for advanced degrees and decades of training experience to join the IAABC. Trainers of all skill levels will benefit from the offered courses, conferences, and discussions with other members.
Inclusive of all science-based trainers – Here at The Modern Dog Trainer, we endorse force-free training methods. The IAABC follows the LIMA principle – Least Invasive, Minimally Aversive. That means there may be some people you interact with that use training methods/tools you might not agree with. However, so much can be gained when people are able to have honest, level-headed, thoughtful discussions with those from different backgrounds/philosophies.
Multi-species – When you sign up with the IAABC, you choose a “division” – dog, cat, parrot, horse, or working animal. That being said, you are permitted to join the other divisions’ discussion lists and watch any of the videos. Even if you never plan on training anything but dogs, there is always something to be learned from watching other species get trained.
Upcoming Principles & Practice course – Launching in 2016, this will be a multi-week, multi-module, multi-speaker self-study course. This course will provide an overview of the many facets of animal behavior consulting for all species, from domestic animals to exotics, appropriate for experienced animal behavior consultants and practitioners as well as those newer to the field.
Committed to higher standards – The IAABC heavily promotes continued learning and has an extensive Code of Ethics that members must follow. The IAABC is constantly evolving and adding new educational opportunities and programs for members.
Are you a member of the IAABC or other professional organization? Tell us about it!
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As a modern dog trainer, you most likely enjoy furthering your education via seminars. They are even better when you can score a working spot with your dog. But it is important to remember some essential supplies for both you and your dog to ensure you both have a fun, safe experience.
Crate
Image taken by Liz Wyant
All seminars have down time between working sessions. During this time, you want to make sure your dog has a safe, comfortable place to relax and recharge. A crate is preferable to a mat because the leash can come off and they can easily curl up and take a snooze without worrying about other dogs getting in their space. Obviously it’s important to make sure your dog is comfortable being crated with other dogs around.
Water And Treats
This one is for both you and your dog. Though some seminars provide snacks and beverages for the human half of the equation, it is still a good idea to bring your own just in case. Also, you will obviously want to make sure you have plenty of water and treats for your dog. Your dog will be working hard and will appreciate fresh, cool water and plenty of treat rewards.
Pen And Notepad
If there are going to be lecture portions of the seminar, which most do have, you’ll want to make sure you have writing materials so you can take notes. Nothing worse than having the presenter say something brilliant and then not being able to remember it later.
Business Cards
Seminars are fantastic for networking! Make sure you have a stack of business cards you can share as you meet new people. And make sure to get their cards, too. It’s always fantastic to have plenty of options for referring/consulting.
Sense Of Humor/Open Mind
Murphy’s Law is right – if something can go wrong, it will. Being able to maintain a sense of humor will keep you relaxed, thereby keeping your dog relaxed. It is so important to remember that yes, you are there to learn and improve your skills, but your dog’s happiness needs to come first. You’re there to bond with your dog and improve your teamwork. If you are getting stressed out, your dog will shut down and tune you out and have a miserable time.
What do you find imperative to bring with you to a seminar?
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At some point in a dog trainer’s career, they are going to get approached by a rescue asking to work with them for a discount. How do you decide if this is a wise decision?
Are You Willing?
This is the often the hardest decision. Are you willing to discount your prices, possibly drastically, to assist a rescue with their fosters and adopters? This is a personal decision that nobody can make for you. Is it going to impact the time you can spend with full-cost clients? Are you going to offer to help a limited number of hours/fosters a week? Are you going to offer a discounted rate not only to current fosters that the rescue is paying for, but also adopters from that rescue?
Is It A Reputable Rescue?
There are dozens, if not hundreds, of rescues in every big city. How do you determine which ones you are willing to attach your name to? As a modern dog trainer, you are probably passionate about using only force-free methods. Does your potential rescue affiliate feel the same way, or will they be alternating between you and a more aversive trainer? That can be confusing for both the dogs and the fosters trying to work with them, so you need to decide if it’s worth laying out restrictions that dogs you work with can ONLY work with you. Or decide if you want to skip that rescue entirely if they are not willing to commit to force-free training.
Are You Confident Referring To Other Trainers?
There are a great many dogs out there with serious issues – aggression to dogs/people/small furry animals, resource guarding, separation anxiety, etc. If you do not have enough experience to safely and effectively work with these animals, are you confident in admitting that? And do you have the trainer connections to be able to refer the rescue to another trainer that can work with those issues?
Can You Handle The Emotional Baggage?
Rescues have limited resources. Because of this, they may not have the money or dedicated fosters required to work through some longer-term issues like reactivity or separation anxiety. This means the dogs may get shuffled to another rescue (and possibly a harsher trainer), or they may get euthanized. Are you going to be able to handle knowing that a dog you worked with got euthanized because you couldn’t “fix” it in the allotted time frame?
Choosing to work with a rescue is a big commitment. However, if you can find a good rescue, you may find that your clientele increases, offsetting your reduced rate, because they recommend you to their adopters. You’ll have the pleasure of watching foster homes learn how to train humanely, and see dogs with less than perfect prior lives come out of their shells or learn to stay home alone or walk nicely on leash. You’ll have great satisfaction when you see one of the dogs you worked with get into an amazing home, and you know that you helped with that. It’s not a decision to be made lightly, but it can be immensely fulfilling.
As a dog trainer, you probably spend a great deal of your time teaching dogs not to pull on leash. But in some situations, pulling is perfectly fine. However, if you are going to allow a dog to pull with strength, they need to be in a well-fitting harness, and you need to avoid having your arm dislocated. Enter from stage left: the Ruffwear Omnijore™ Joring System. The system includes a harness, stretchy towline, and a padded hipbelt for the human half of the fun, as well as a mesh bag for keeping it conveniently contained when not in use.
With the optional rear waist strap
Minus the optional rear waist strap
The Harness
Ruffwear makes superb products, so we were not surprised to find that this set was fantastic. We’ll start with the harness. Their measuring guide is spot-on, and if you already have a Ruffwear harness you are safe ordering the same size. It was a little unwieldy to get on as it has minimal clips, so you have to slide it over your dog’s head and then maneuver their legs through the straps. Have treats handy if your dog does not enjoy weird handling. Once it is on though, it’s marvelous. The straps are incredibly adjustable, in 4 separate locations, ensuring a perfect fit. The harness goes a little longer down the dog’s back, and then has an extra removable strap that fits at the smallest part of their waist to ensure more comfort for the dog when it is pulling. Instead of a standard d-ring to attach a leash to, it has cording with a loop at the end so the leash/pressure pull more from behind the dog instead of above it. This helps maintain a comfortable fit for the dog even when pulling.
Hipbelt and color-coded towline
The Towline
The towline stretches from 6.5′ to 8.75′ to provide superior shock absorption. On one end it has Ruffwear’s patented Talon Clip™ to easily attach/detach the leash to the harness. It has a handle loop down low near the clip, as well as a standard loop at the top, where it attaches to the hipbelt. The ends are color coded to avoid confusion.
Notice the padding over all the straps, no buckles touching dog’s body
The Hipbelt
The hipbelt is designed to ride snugly and comfortably around your
Notice the mesh for coolness and the thick padding.
hips, keeping your back safe and your center of gravity lower and more secure. The hipbelt is very padded and fits hips sized 27″-48″, so it is quite adjustable. It has removable straps for around your thighs to help keep the hipbelt from riding up. It has a water bottle pouch and two zippered pockets. The tow bridle that the towline attaches to gives the line side-to-side mobility or permits you to attach multiple towlines/dogs. It features a quick release for the towline in case of emergency.
Padded, comfortable design
Thoughts On The System
I thoroughly believe that some dogs can benefit, both physically and mentally, from being allowed to pull once in a while. Obviously it is important to get vet clearance if you are going to have your dog pull you, whether on a bicycle, rollerblades, skateboard, or skis. But most dogs thoroughly enjoy the opportunity to use their muscles. This
Kit bag includes instructions sewn to inside
Ruffwear Omnijore™ Joring System keeps both them and you safe. The towline very firmly attaches to the harness and stays there until purposefully released. It is possible to use a regular leash as well if you want something shorter and more practical for regular walks in the neighborhood. Even when my dog really lunged, the leash stayed securely attached and the hipbelt kept me from getting jolted. The pockets and water bottle holder in the hipbelt were much appreciated to keep my hands empty of keys, poop bags, water bottle, treats, etc. The harness, once adjusted, fits beautifully, keeping pressure off the dog’s neck and shoulders and the center of gravity for pulling safely low and back instead of upwards. As with all Ruffwear products, each component is sturdy and well designed, made to withstand strong forces whilst remaining comfortable for both dog and human. This package definitely gets a solid, “heck yes and thank you!”
Ergonomically designed
Mesh kit bag
The Ruffwear Omnijore™ Joring System can be purchased here.
*This set was given to The Modern Dog Trainer for free for the review. Our opinion of this product was not affected by Ruffwear’s generosity. We participate in Ruffwear’s affiliate program in order to support this blog and our dedicated contributors.
The old saying of “fighting like cats and dogs” does not have to be a reality. With a little bit of patience and management, your clients’ dogs can learn to accept new cats into the household. Help your client work through these steps and soon they may have the joy of seeing their dog and cat snuggling together in bed.
I will be sharing my own experience of integrating my rescued cat, Malcolm, in with my American Pit Bull Terrier, Inara.
Malcolm and Inara
Day 1 – The Grand Arrival
Just like when bringing home a new dog, cats can also benefit from a decompression period. Whether they were a stray, or came from a shelter, or a foster home, or a pet store, or wherever, cats don’t like change. The new cat will really appreciate a chance to settle in with some peace and quiet to learn the smells, sounds, and activities of its new home. I did this by setting up my spare room for Malcolm. He had food, water, a litterbox, and comfy blankets to lie on. I would take a book and just go in and read, sitting on the floor, while he explored his new room and me. When he solicited attention I’d give it to him, but I didn’t push it on him.
It’s important to make sure the bedroom door remains firmly shut though. We want the cat and dog to be able to hear and smell each other without being able to touch.
It is so important give the dog plenty of attention during this period. Sometimes it’s easy to get caught up in the wonders of a new pet and spend all your time with the new arrival. Do spend plenty of time with the new cat, but don’t neglect your other pets.
Baby Gates Are Your New Best Friend
When both the cat and dog seem relaxed with the situation, you can move on to the next step. I cannot emphasize enough that days should be dedicated to these steps, not hours. Going slowly at first, even though it’s hard, will pay off in the end. And if you have any hesitation on whether either animal is ready, don’t move forward. And if at any time either animal is stressed, slow down and back up a step.
Now it’s time to open the door. However, for the safety of both cat and dog, you want a barrier. I chose to use a tall metal baby gate to provide separation. If I’d had any doubts that Inara might go over it, I would have stacked two gates. Then alternate sitting on each side of the baby gate, doling out yummy treats to both cat and dog for appropriate, non-confrontational behavior.
Here are two videos from when I was at this step with Malcolm and Inara. Neither are exciting at all – this is what you want though! Boring is good. In the first video, Mal isn’t quite up to going over to the baby gate, but that was okay. The second video is long, but I didn’t cut it because it shows what a slow, steady process this is. In that video, they do have their first official greeting.
The Raising Of The Gates
This is a big step, but if you have done your homework and not rushed things, it should go very smoothly and without fanfare. At this point, dog and cat are relaxed while sniffing each other through the gate and there has been no barking, growling, hissing, spitting, or swatting. So once again, it is time to arm yourself with something comfortable to sit on, a book, and yummy treats (for the animals, not you). Then raise the baby gate up about a foot. You want the cat to be able to easily come and go underneath it, but you don’t want it high enough that the dog can get under it. Quietly sit and read and whenever the cat is brave enough to come out and explore a little, dole out treats. Whenever the dog is being gentle in her behaviors towards the cat, dole out treats.
Final Steps
Once this major milestone has been reached without difficulty, it should be smooth sailing. Before letting the two have free roam of the house together, put the dog in her crate or in a bedroom and let the cat explore the house. We want him comfortable in his full surroundings before he is expected to happily deal with a dog AND new surroundings. If you are comfortable that the dog will not bust her crate to get to the cat, you can leave the cat out while you’re at work and dog is crated (or in a bedroom).
Eventually you can give them both free reign in the house together. It’s so important to ensure that the cat always has escape routes from rooms and high places to flee to if necessary. I kept the baby gate up but raised for quite a while, just so Malcolm always had his safe place.
Even though there is peace in the household, I am a firm proponent of “better safe than sorry.” Keep cat and dog separated at meal times and separated when you are not at home. All it takes is one incident and you have a seriously injured or dead cat or dog. A little management goes a long way to maintaining a happy household.
Malcolm’s foster home had dogs, and Inara grew up with a cat, so you’ll see by the Youtube dates that within a few days these two were fully integrated. I do NOT encourage this speed and would have gone infinitely slower if they both weren’t already familiar with the other species.
Good friends
What other tips do you have for integrating dogs and cats?
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This is part 3 of a 3-part series on Behavior Adjustment Training (BAT), created by Grisha Stewart. In the first posting you learned about the basics of BAT and how a “perfect” session should look. In part 2, you learned why it is so effective for reactive/aggressive dogs. This final installment is to discuss the three most common mistakes made by trainers utilizing BAT. Though the technique is simple in theory, perfecting it takes time.
1. Leading The Dog
Letting the dog pick his own direction and speed of movement is probably the hardest thing for trainers and clients to do. BAT is very calm, and it is easy to slip into the mindset of, “he’s doing really well, so let’s encourage him to go a little closer to his trigger!” BAT is about empowering the dog and allowing him to make his own correct choices.
When doing BAT, you want the dog to investigate his surroundings and sniff his way around. Even though it may seem like he is ignoring the trigger/decoy, he knows it is there and is gathering information in his own manner. As a trainer, you want to encourage your client to stand back and follow the dog’s lead. Even subtle body shifts on the behalf of the handler can encourage the dog to move faster than he is comfortable doing, so make sure you encourage your clients to remain entirely neutral regarding movement.
2. Letting The Dog Go Over Threshold
Remember in part one where the lifeguard analogy was used? It is your job as a trainer to help the client keep the dog from “drowning,” or getting too close to his trigger. You want the dog close enough that he is aware of the trigger and is gathering information in a very relaxed manner. If you see him start to tense up, or stare a little longer, or start moving faster, you need to help his owner guide him a little further back up the beach into safe territory.
As stated above, it is too easy to think that the dog is unaware of the trigger. This is where your expertise in body language becomes critical. You need to help your clients learn to see that minute changes in the dog’s body that indicate he is starting to get a little over aroused, and then ensure they have the leash skills necessary to gently guide him away.
3. Guiding The Dog Into “Training Mode”
Since most, if not all, of your BAT clients will be proponents of force free training, their dogs are probably very familiar with what treats mean: TRAINING. And they love training, because training = TREATS! Obviously this is not a bad thing by any means. However, when doing BAT, you want to try to keep the dog out of training mode. By training mode, I mean that lovely “what do you want me to do next for you, huh huh huh???” attention that the dogs often go into due to their eagerness to work with their owners. Training mode is a lovely thing to see. Just not during BAT!
Dogs in training mode often are very good at tuning out many lesser distractions. This means they may not notice their trigger until they’ve worked their way too close, at which point they rapidly go over threshold. You want the dog to stay in relaxed leisure mode. This is why it’s so important that if you are going to “seed” the ground with some treats to encourage sniffing and exploring, that you do so when the dog is not watching you.
Want To Learn More?
BAT is very complex and one little series of blogs does not do it the justice it deserves. To learn more, you can watch a lovely free BAT Overview video that Grisha offers.
You can also watch a full 2 hour BAT Intro Webinar that Grisha put out. It is $29 but well worth the money if BAT is something you’d like in your toolbox.
Finally, to get the full immersion and become more proficient and comfortable in its use, you can take an online course called BAT 101.
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Due to the generosity of IAABC President Michael Shikashio, The Modern Dog Trainer was able to send a writer to the Animal Behavior Conference in Chicago, IL. Notes from day 1 can be found here.
Kristin and Dr. Ballantyne conducted a small research project on the impact that living with a pet with behavior issues can have on the owners. The research consisted of 63 participants, 40 of whom answered all questions. The questions covered how their pet’s behavior impacted their social and personal lives. Their results showed the impact is huge, sometimes devastating. Owners feel stress, guilt, embarrassment, and socially isolated from friends and family. Couples can have increased arguments due to disagreements on how to manage/care for the pet. People can feel judged by society, friends, and even family.
They spoke about how even professionals occasionally come across as judgmental to those with difficult pets. How many times have you heard, “there are no bad dogs, only bad owners.” Imagine the impact that one simple statement has on a person who has tried their hardest and still has a difficult dog.
They said that as trainers, we have a responsibility to keep in the mind how any management instructions we give our clients will impact their lives and possibly create isolation from friends and family. Most of the participants said that their trainers and veterinarians provided hope and trust. That’s not to be taken lightly! Kristin runs a support group for people living with difficult pets, where owners can come and talk to other people who truly understand. No training tips, just emotional support.
They spoke about euthanasia for maybe two minutes, and how it is the last show of love we can give our pets, yet people often don’t extend this grace when the decision is made for a behavioral/mental illness in the pet. This leaves owners again feeling judged and blamed. Just a personal note here, but just in the couple of minutes that this was discussed, the entire room was sniffling and many were wiping eyes. It was profound to me to see how many of us had obviously been touched by a shared experience of euthanizing a beloved pet or helping somebody else come to that decision.
To end, they discussed how trainers are first responders – people reach out to us in a time of crisis. This is a huge responsibility. We might not have the tools for dealing with the emotional crisis and that’s okay. We cannot be trainers and therapists or we get compassion fatigue and burnout. We don’t have to have all the answers. So what can we do?
Let clients know it’s normal to have these feelings; validate them.
Let them know it’s okay to still love their pet. When people accept the dog they have, instead of the dog they wanted, everybody is happier.
Use reflective and empathetic listening.
Use self-care to avoid compassion fatigue.
Read a book entitled “Trauma Stewardship: An Everyday Guide to Caring for Self While Caring for Others” by Laura van Dernoot Lipsky.
Introducing Highly Reactive And Aggressive Dogs by Ken Ramirez
The author of this blog having a fangirl moment with Ken Ramirez.
Ken received a grant to do research on introducing three reactive/aggressive dogs to each other, using the same techniques used in zoos and aquariums. The research is still proprietary so cannot be shared to those who were not present at the seminar. However, trust me when I say it was fascinating and you should definitely keep your eyes peeled for when it becomes available to the general public.
Simplifying Complex Training Tools by Ken Ramirez
Ken considers an advanced concept anything that ventures beyond “reward desirable behavior and ignore unwanted behavior.” He made sure to specify that just understanding the theory isn’t enough – you must have the practical skills before using a tool, let alone introducing it to a client. He said that training is all about adapting and changing procedures based upon the animal’s behavior. He discussed many different tools that trainers should have in their toolbox:
Recall Signal (not a tool but included in lecture due to frequency of misuse)
End Of Session Signal
For each of these, he discussed what the science has shown, how and when to use them, and whether he personally uses them or not. He ended by talking about how all tools exist for a reason. Many are very specialized and seldom needed, but we shouldn’t throw them out of the toolbox. We need to understand all the tools and how to use them if we want to help people STOP using them. On the other hand, don’t use a tool just because you have it. Successful use of complex tools depends on thorough understanding of the benefits and challenges of their use.
Final Thoughts Of This Writer
I cannot thank Michael Shikashio and the IAABC enough for his generosity in providing The Modern Dog Trainer a ticket to this conference. It was an absolutely amazing experience and I learned so much. It is frustrating as I know the blogs I wrote of this conference cannot convey the sheer brilliance of the speakers that were present, nor the massive amount of information they so generously shared with all of us.
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Due to the generosity of IAABC President Michael Shikashio, The Modern Dog Trainer was able to send a writer to the Animal Behavior Conference in Chicago, IL.
On April 18th and 19th, the IAABC (International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants) held a conference on animal behavior at The Anti-Cruelty Society in Chicago. It was two full information-packed days. Fortunately, I had taken my laptop because 14 pages of single-spaced, typed notes later, I was floating on an education high!
Steve Dale – Being Real About The Human/Animal Bond
Steve started the weekend with a bang, throwing out some sobering statistics about the state of pets in our world today. Obesity issues, behavior issues, health issues, end of life issues. However, as he pointed out, many of these issues are because we love our pets so very much. Loving them to death, you could say. He did offer some other reasons we are seeing so many more behavioral issues in our beloved pets:
we pay more attention to our animals, so we are bound to notice more issues
“latch key” pets, home alone for much of the day
genetic predisposition
aversive training techniques
lack of training/socialization
not listening to real experts, only Google “experts”
treating pets like people
So, as a modern dog trainer, what can you do to help combat this?
community involvement
education of clients/public
social and traditional media
introduce yourself to public officials
good marketing – senior discounts, kitten classes, work with a shelter
As a Certified Veterinary Behaviorist, Dr. Ciribassi said the issue he sees the most is fear based aggression. He discussed how so often it is made worse by well-intentioned owners trying to punish the behavior out of their dogs to maintain pack leadership. Doing this simply creates what he calls conflict aggression. The dog is throwing submissive body language – he is not at all confident. But he has learned that humans are unpredictable and that aggression gets him out of the situation. Dr. Ciribassi said that conflict/fear-based aggression generally shows up either at sexual maturity (6-8 months) or, more likely, social maturity (1-2 years).
Dr. Ciribassi’s protocol for treating this is:
counter conditioning
remove exposure to inciting stimuli
desensitization
appropriate use of psychoactive pharmaceuticals
Dr. Ciribassi said he does not advise taking dogs off pharmaceuticals if they are working. Work with a vet to taper them to the lowest effective dose, but trying to wean a dog off is similar to trying to wean a diabetic off insulin. It’s a disease that isn’t cured, a medical abnormality. He did say that it’s a lifelong process, that we never “cure” these problems; we just help people manage the problems so the dogs can stay in the home.
Dr. John Ciribassi – Possessive Aggression/Resource Guarding
“Dominance – assertion of one member of a group over another in acquiring access to a piece of food, a mate, a place to display, a sleeping site, or any other requisite that adds to the genetic fitness of the dominant individual…” E.O. Wilson
When Dr. Ciribassi talks about resource guarding, he has two different tests for it. The first, the equal opportunity test, involves putting a valued resource equidistant between two dogs and releasing them at the same time. The dog that gets the resource is more dominant when it comes to equal opportunity. However, the next test, the established possession test, is more telling. In this test, one dog is given a valued resource and allowed to enjoy it and establish possession. The other dog is then released. Whichever dog ends up with the resource is more dominant when establishing possession. The established possession test is the one Dr. Ciribassi was talking about during this session.
He pointed out that resource guarding has nothing to do with hierarchy between a dog and a person. It is all about resource holding potential. If it were based on dogs being dominant over people, it would imply that dogs would be able to come over and get us to leave something we have that they want. It is simply not about hierarchy. It is about value, possession, and the need to maintain control over a resource.
When it comes to resource guarding, punishing the dog or taking away the item is the worst thing to do. It increases the likelihood of the dog increasing their guarding or moving on to guarding benign objects. Dr. Ciribassi emphasized that hand feeding is not recommended because it keeps that conflict present with the dog.
Dr. John Ciribassi – Separation Anxiety
Dr. Ciribassi started by saying that people cannot cause separation anxiety. It’s a genetic abnormality. What people can do, however, is exacerbate the issue. He said that before beginning treatment/b-mod, it is essential to not only get an extensive behavioral history, but also a physical exam and lab work to rule out any medical issues. This is especially critical when the issue suddenly rears its ugly head in a dog that is full-grown.
Dr. Ciribassi said that the overall goal of treatment is to reduce dependence on owners and reduce significance of departure and arrival routines. This is managed through an extensive treatment plan that would require its own blog. He does pair the behavior modification with anti-anxiety medication.
Dr. Ciribassi listed several factors that can affect the outcome of treatment:
the older the dog at time of diagnosis, the poorer the prognosis
a dog with multiple diagnoses (noise anxiety, conflict aggression, etc) will have a poorer prognosis
can the owners follow through with the extensive modification to their lives?
can the owners follow through with medication compliance with their dogs?
Laura spent some time telling us of the lessons she learned from working with exotic animals that have helped her become a more effective dog trainer, especially on the human side of things. Here are some of her tips:
When working with your clients, it is important to remember “WOOF.”
W – What you want
O – One thing at a time
O – Observable and definable
F – Five words or less
Be an empathetic teacher to both animal and owner
Give discrete criteria that is easily followed, less than 5 words:
“leash thumb in pocket” or “leash hand along seam”
Have owners practice the skills before the dog gets involved
We shape human behavior – avoid flooding your clients!
Teach proactive husbandry care
Slow steps = progress
Learning is dynamic
Finally, Laura shared with us what she teaches first to clients – TACOS!
T – Targeting
A – Attention to handler
C – Cue a behavior
O – Offer a behavior
S – Stationing or settle on mat
Dr. Ciribassi, Steve Dale, Ruth Crisler, Michael Shikashio – What Is A Veterinary Behaviorist, A Behavior Consultant, A Trainer?
This was a panel discussion to round out the day. Many ideas were bounced around and much emphasis was made on the point that trainers, behavior consultants, vets and veterinary behaviorists all have to work together as a team to aid clients. Here are a few basic points that were thrown out for discussion:
Trainers prevent problems behaviors
Behavior consultants solve problem behaviors
As trainers and behavior consultants, we never make diagnoses – we refer to vets
There are only about 65 true Veterinary Behaviorists in the United States.
That was all just on day one!!! Click here for notes from day two!
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Coren began paying attention after a dog trainer mentioned that he noticed his dogs almost exhibited pushy, “dominant” behavior when they started to catch on to a new behavior. Instead of lolling tongues and wagging tails, the ears would go forward and tails up.
Due to the generosity of IAABC President Michael Shikashio, The Modern Dog Trainer was able to send a writer to the Animal Behavior Conference in Chicago, IL. 
